Don Khong to Vientaine via Pakse.

On leaving Don Khong, we took a small ferry across the Mekong where we were met by a van which drove us the 2 1/2 hrs to Pakse. The actual town of Pakse offers little of note, but for it is the most torn up place we have yet encountered. Every street is in some stage of repair - I think it is repair the crews are engaged in - though it seems all repairs began at the same time and they are just at the ripping up stage. The transportation hub of southern Laos, most folks who find themselves in Pakse only to spend a night before heading north or south in Laos, west across the bridge into Thailand or east to Vietnam.

We stayed one night in Pakse at the Sabaidy 2 guest house, truly an oasis in this blighted city. Our rooms were nice but the guesthouse boasted an outdoor gathering place, shadowed by tall trees and massive sitting area where most guests would gather for cold beers, cool breezes and the good company of fellow travellers.

We took a day trip to Vat Phou, an Angkor vintage watt 30 km south of the town. While in a far greater state of disrepair that the ruins built on a large plain at Siam Reap - and much smaller in scope - the ceremonial causeway of Vat Phou begins at the elevation of the Mekong with further galleries rising steeply up the side of a small mountain, each connected with the last by a wide stone stair, the final temple situated on a small ledge at 1400'. The vistas over the Mekong valley are breath-taking. Behind the topmost temple the mountain rises vertically with small grottos accessible beneath the massive cliff faces. Water filters down from the mountain rock to drip in small pools inside the grottos. This water is considered holy and all around the pools shrines have been constructed.

Following our outing we returned to Pakse, packed our bags, and after some more cold beer and good company, we boarded a "bed" bus for the 12 hour trip to Vientaine. It's what it sounds like. A double decker bus with double beds either side of each level, with pillows and blankets. While the beds weren't made for people 6' and taller, they were other-wise quite comfy and both Kim and I slept fairly well.