Don Khon to Don Khong.

TShortly after our last post, on the evening of the 27th, Kim and I opted for an sunset stroll on Don Khon. We had noted that on the maps hung at travel kiosks around town there was a second set of waterfalls on the west end of the island, though these were not mentioned in Lonely Planet nor were they pushed as a destination for tourists. The path led us through a small fishing village. Many of the folks here were in the river, either washing the days dirt away or catching their dinner with casting nets. The children of the village were glad to see us, running out onto the path shouting, "Sawadeeeee!" And reaching out for a hand slap. Two particularly rugged looking two year olds laughingly pleaded to be picked up and, once we had complied and returned them to their feet, began swiping the open palm of their left hand with the index finger of the right and calling, "Kip, kip, kip" (the Laos currency). I guess you don't get that kind of love without paying for it.

Further on, an even less defined path split to the right, crossed a very Indiana Jones-ish suspension bridge over a raging channel of the Mekong and down to another wider channel. Here there are a set of waterfalls every bit as impressive as those on the east side, but without the crowds, fencing, restaurants and entrance fees. As well, at the base of the falls are constructed huge bamboo fish traps left exposed by the low winter water levels.

Our return to town though the village was as celebratory as our earlier passing, but for the stern glares of two tiny and disappointed entrepreneurs.

After breakfast the next morning, Kim hiked the length of Don Det while I arranged our forward travel and accommodation.

At 2pm we, along with seven other travellers, boarded a brightly coloured long tail boat for the 2 1/2 hour trip northward up the Mekong to Don Khong. This area of the Mekong is named Si Phon Don - 4000 Islands - and it surely lives up to its name. The river runs strongly here and at many points we pushed through substantial sets of rapids. Every where are sand banks just below the surface. Our clearly experienced captain wove back and forth across the river finding channels - invisible to we passengers - that would allow our shallow draft. While this journey may have required close attention from our captain, for us it was a beautifully peaceful drift under bright skies, a warm Mekong breeze on our faces.

On arrival, the host of the guesthouse which we had booked had given away our double room and could offer us only a room off the river with two twin beds. He seemed genuinely offended we when we declined and went looking for other lodging. At the end of the street we found the Kong View where we arranged for a double room, overlooking the Mekong, for 20,000 kip less that the room where we had intended to stay.

Yesterday Kim and I again rented bikes. In the morning we rode to the south end of the island and back, about 10 km. However the sun wasn't nearly hot enought, so we had lunch while waiting for it to really get hot before we tackled the 30 km + trip around the island. Kim slathered on sunscreen before we set out but forgot to do the backs of her hands, which now appear quite like the shell of a well cooked lobster.

While checking into the Kong View, I commented that our host, Mike, spoke very good English, which makes sense, as he was raised in Toronto. His father, an ethnic Chinese, was living in Cambodia when the Khmer Rouge came to power. He escaped with his Khmer wife and seven children to Laos where, shortly after, his wife died. His father remarried and had four more children. Laos was ruled by the fledgling Communist party, the economy was weak and reeducation programs, while no where nearly as savage as those under the Khmer Rouge, resulted in many Loa being imprisoned. Mike and his younger brother, along with his eldest sister from his father's first marriage, and her husband, escaped Laos to the refugee camps in Thailand. There they lived for a year, rejected for sanctuary by France, England and the U.S., until they were sponsored for immigration by a church group in Goderich, Ontario. Mike recently quit his 20 year career doing technical work for a pharma company in Ontario and has returned to Laos to help his elderly mother manage their holdings here in Laos.

Why the bio on Mike? Well, when I heard his story I reflected how easy I and my children ( and pretty well everyone else I know) have had it. And secondly, as last night was Chinese New Year, Mike invited us to join he and his large extended family for a night of eating, drinking (killer home made rice whiskey - no, really, this stuff will kill you as it is tasty and potent), and good conversation. A perfect ending to perfect days in Si Phon Don.

Today we continue north to Pakse, and the Angkor temples at Champasak.